JTech 2.8W Laser Upgrade Kit Part 2

I created a simple mount for getting the laser attached to the Rostock Max V2 effector by modifying another mount I found online. two bolts and nuts hold the heat sink to the effector. I used the default aluminum standoffs from the original Rostock effector.

Documentation for configuring the Smoothieboard to work with a laser is available on their site.

I attached the signal wires to the 2.4 pins on the smoothieboard through the small MOSFET plug. I configured the board as follows:

# Laser module configuration
laser_module_enable                          true            # Whether to activate the laser module at all. All configuration is
                                                             # ignored if false.
laser_module_pin                             2.4             # this pin will be PWMed to control the laser. Only P2.0 - P2.5
                                                             # can be used since laser requires hardware PWM
laser_module_max_power                       1               # this is the maximum duty cycle that will be applied to the laser
laser_module_tickle_power                    0.0             # this duty cycle will be used for travel moves to keep the laser
                                                             # active without actually burning
laser_module_pwm_period                      200             # this sets the pwm frequency as the period in microseconds

Executing some laser moves showed preliminary success. I couldn’t get a PWM signal less than 100% to get the laser to activate though. After some IRC conversations I moved the signal wires to the 2.4 pin on the board instead of the MOSFET in an attempt to get a regular 3.3V signal to the laser driver. Since the laser driver supplies its own power to the laser there isn’t a need for an “amped up” signal. Unfortunately the problem persisted. I will need to check the signal getting sent from the Smoothieboard to the laser driver to continue diagnosis.

It will be a few days before my new oscilloscope arrives, so in the mean time I have gotten to calibrating the laser with the smoothieboard. I found a few sample DXF files online that I plugged into Sketchup, converted to STLs and put through Cura.

Here are some of the results using a 0.2mm “nozzle”, shell thickness at 0.2mm, and 100% infill.

I noticed some “delta arm blues” symptoms with the infill not making it all the way to the edge of the print. I rotated the model 90 degree and printed it again. The infill was not the same, meaning the STL and gcode weren’t at fault. At first glance it looked like there was an issue with the X axis belts. I went around and tightened everything up, still the same result.

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Looking at the arc around the wolf the line the infill makes is too “perfect”, I think this is not necessarily a hardware issue.

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If you look closely at the top arch of this trial you can see different shades of laser. I changed the speed of the print several times during the arch. The curve the infill made stayed the same, making me further believe this isn’t a hardware issue. Slower speeds should result in less of an effect due to the effector not moving as quickly.

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Getting closer with every print :), stay tuned for part 3.

JTech 2.8W Laser Upgrade Kit Part 1

After returning the L’Cheapo Laser kit I acquired the JTech 2.8W Laser Upgrade Kit as a replacement. It shipped from Jtech’s website the same day I ordered it. Free Priority Mail shipping was supplied for orders over $150 at the time.

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The frame for the laser driver assembly is a 2 piece printed part with the electronics sandwiched between them. It’s held together with nuts and bolts. It includes a fan that runs when the power is turned on.

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The printed piece is good quality with no warping or physical issues.
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The laser driver features a small key to enabled or disable the functionality of the laser. When the laser is enabled (key turned right) it cannot be removed. It was a bit finicky the first few times I tried to turn it. As the instructions stated you have to push the key in a bit to get it to turn. I didn’t notice any fragility of the chassis when I applied excess force to the key. After 10 seconds I had the motion down and had no issues turning it on and off without snagging.

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The laser itself comes inside of a heat sink with a set screw holding it in place. It comes with a 24″ lead for attaching to the laser driver.

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The heat sink is how the laser is attached to the effector via the two holes on either side.

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The laser driver comes with an Triad Magnetics external power adapter that supplies 12 volts at 2 amps.

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According to the Jtech site there are different price points depending on the power adapter desired (international vs US). I would have preferred an optional power supply for the kit to save a few extra dollars though. After contacting Jay from Jtech, he informed me that the laser is more susceptible to transient voltage spikes than other electronics. When combined with a lower end PSU (which most printer kits come with) the laser can be destroyed because of this spike. He stated the 2.8W version is less susceptible to this than the 2W. Since I am using a higher end Mean Well SP-500-24, I believe I should be alright tying directly to the PSU and skipping the adapter.

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The 12v power input does not have an extra way to make connections unlike the laser output and laser control input. I wanted to power the laser with the printer PSU but the lack of an extra wire connection made splicing the power adapter into the line a necessity.

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The two connections to the right of the power are for an optional fan attached to the laser and an optional remote reset switch. Both of these require a custom connector, which unfortunately aren’t included in the kit. Jay from Jtech stated the accessories are for sale separately on their site. I failed to notice this when I was purchasing my kit. The reset and fan wires are simple JST connectors, which can be picked up anywhere online or local hobby stores.

The included glasses appear similar to the L’Cheapo Laser kit, the dimensions are the same and sport the same adjustable ear pieces. The Jtech glasses have more clarity when looking through them and are made out of more durable plastic however. They come with a nice case to keep fingerprints and dirt off of the lenses also.

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Excellent documentation about the kit is available on Jtech’s website. PDFs of the technical specifications and instructions for configuring and operating the laser are well written and have appropriate diagrams and pictures. Their site also includes STLs of the laser driver chassis, the laser, and the laser heat sink for creating mounts to attach the laser to various printers. Numerous mounts are already listed on their site for various brands.

This is the second laser I’ve had my hands on as a means for a few cutting projects I am working on. The L’Cheapo is advertised and named as a budget friendly laser add on coming in around the ~$200 price point. Even though I opted for the 2.8W Jtech edition, the lower 2W kit (which has all the same hardware as the 2.8, only a less powerful laser) is currently priced at $240. I found the amount of value Jtech put into their kit for $40 extra got me a much more professional and documented product.

I am waiting for my replacement smoothieboard to arrive, part 2 will follow then.